Field Notes
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Short notes from the field: retail buying, merchandising, and category strategy, written from a decade of doing the work in-house. New notes land here as I write them, usually pulled straight from a pattern I keep seeing repeat across otherwise unrelated brands.
Note 01Merchandise management
Performance premium: the tier the market didn't have a name for
For years, footwear walls split into two camps, specialty product for the dedicated few and accessible product for everyone else. The assumption underneath it was that volume retail and premium price points couldn't share a shelf.
Questions this note answers
- How do you find an unclaimed tier before a competitor does?
- Can a smaller brand realistically claim a tier before a bigger one does?
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Note 02Merchandise management
Winter boots weren't dying. They were bored.
When a category slows down, the usual reflexes kick in: cut the assortment, discount the slow movers, wait for weather. I've sat in those meetings. The reflexes treat the symptom.
Questions this note answers
- How do I know if a category needs newness or just better marketing?
- Does this only apply to seasonal categories like footwear?
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Note 03Merchandise management
Full price is a strategy, not a hope
Every brand says it wants to protect its price. Fewer are willing to do what that actually takes on the buying side: a tight assortment instead of a broad one, balanced inventory instead of a big opening bet, and a replenishment program that keeps winners in stock.
Questions this note answers
- Isn’t protecting price just about saying no to discounts?
- What if I’m already deep into a markdown cycle?
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Note 04Retail access
How to get your product into Costco
The short answer: reach the right buyer with a proven item, a clean margin and logistics story, and real evidence of demand. Costco buys a tight, curated assortment, so a winning pitch is narrow and deep.
Questions this note answers
- Do you need a broker to sell to Costco?
- What does Costco look for in a new product?
- How is Costco different from pitching Target or Whole Foods?
- Can you help us actually get in?
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Note 05Retail access
How to get your brand into evo or REI
evo curates a tight action-sports assortment and runs a strict vendor routing guide; REI buys through category merchandisers and holds every brand to published sustainability standards. Most brands are turned down on readiness, not on product.
Questions this note answers
- How do you become a vendor at evo?
- What are REI’s vendor onboarding requirements?
- How do you find the right category buyer?
- What proof of demand do buyers want before a line review?
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Note 06Retail access
How to get your product into Whole Foods
The short answer: meet the quality standards first, then reach the right regional or category buyer with a product that fits the store and proof it sells. Local is a real doorway, not a slogan.
Questions this note answers
- Do I need a distributor to get into Whole Foods?
- What is the LEAP program?
- How strict are Whole Foods' quality standards?
- Should I pitch nationally or locally?
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Note 07Retail access
How to get your product into Target
The short answer: pick the right door among shelf, Target Plus, or an accelerator, and walk through it with proof of demand and an operation that can keep up. Target buys brands that already have momentum somewhere else.
Questions this note answers
- How do I get a meeting with a Target buyer?
- What is Target Plus and should I start there?
- What are Target's accelerator programs?
- What does Target expect from a new vendor operationally?
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Note 08Retail access
How to get your brand into Ulta Beauty
The short answer: build proof of demand, pick the right entry door among Sparked, the marketplace, an accelerator, or a category buyer, and arrive with economics that survive beauty-retail margins.
Questions this note answers
- How do I submit my brand to Ulta Beauty?
- What is Sparked at Ulta Beauty?
- What is the MUSE Accelerator?
- What margins should I expect at Ulta?
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Note 09Consulting basics
What a retail buying & merchandising consultant does
A retail buying and merchandising consultant helps you decide what to sell, how to position and price it, which retailers and marketplaces to pursue, and how to build the operation behind it, from the buyer’s side of the table.
Questions this note answers
- When should a brand hire a buying consultant instead of a full-time buyer?
- What’s the difference between a buying consultant and a sales broker?
- Do you work with retailers too, or only brands?
- How much does it cost?
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Note 10Consulting basics
A field glossary
Plain definitions of the retail terms behind the work: market access, assortment and category strategy, MAP policy, full-price sell-through, replenishment, and more.
Terms covered
- Market access
- Retail buying
- Merchandising
- Assortment strategy
- Category strategy
- Full-price sell-through
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Note 11Merchandise management
MAP pricing: what it is and how to set it
MAP, Minimum Advertised Price, is the lowest price a brand allows a retailer to advertise a product for. A working MAP policy names the floor clearly, states what counts as advertising, and lays out an enforcement path the brand actually follows.
Questions this note answers
- What does MAP pricing stand for?
- What’s the difference between MAP and MSRP?
- Is a MAP policy legally enforceable?
- How do you enforce a MAP policy?
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Note 12Merchandise management
How to build a buying process for a startup
The short answer: a short, written loop that decides what to buy, how much, when it needs to land, and how you will know it worked. Start with open-to-buy, an assortment plan, reorder rules, and one weekly review.
Questions this note answers
- What is open to buy in retail?
- When should a startup hire a buyer?
- What tools do you need for a buying process?
- Can you build a buying process for my brand?
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Why these notes
These aren’t roundups of someone else’s research. Every note starts with something that actually happened in a buying meeting, a launch, or a category that went quiet, distilled down to the part worth remembering. Most of what lands on a retail buyer’s desk rhymes across categories, even when the products have nothing in common.
Sound familiar?
If a note here sounds like your situation, that’s not a coincidence. Read it, see if it fits, and if it does, the next step is usually a short conversation, not a pitch.
Common questions
Field Notes FAQ
01How often are new field notes published?
New notes land here as I write them, usually pulled from a pattern I keep seeing repeat across otherwise unrelated brands. Sign up at the bottom of the page to get them by email, no more than monthly.
02Who writes the field notes?
Addie Morrow, Founding Consultant of Opportunity Designed. Every note draws on ten-plus years in-house at major retailers in buying and merchandising, written from the buyer’s side of the table.
03Can you help me apply a note to my brand?
Yes. If a note sounds like your situation, a 20-minute Project Fit Call is the place to start. We talk through where you are and whether I can help.
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